Pappy’s Smokehouse in St. Louis lives up to the hype

I’ve been reluctant to this point to write new blog posts about restaurants and dive bars I visited prior to the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic earlier this spring.  I figured why write about a place nobody could visit right away once they read my post?  I also figured I’d be doing the place I wrote about a disservice by not waiting until they were reopened. 

One such place that has been on my “to do” list since I visited last year is the acclaimed barbecue joint Pappy’s Smokehouse in St. Louis.  In a little more than a decade of existence, Pappy’s has rapidly become recognized among the best barbecue joints in the country due in large part to the media attention it has received on Food Network and other travel-related outlets.  With a famous barbecue destination in my own backyard, it was only a matter of time before I checked it out for myself.

       

Pappy’s Smokehouse is located just minutes outside of downtown St. Louis – a straight shot down Olive Street as you head west.  Look on the left side of the road, and you’ll know you’re there when you see the large smokers and probably a sizable pile of wood in front of the restaurant. 

The sight and smell of these smokers are sure signs that Pappy’s takes its craft to heart.  Some of their prized smokers are even given a name. 

A tale of biscuits, 'shine and watermelon ribs at the Loveless Café, Nashville, Tenn.

It seems fewer and fewer classic roadside cafes survive, yet alone thrive, with each passing year.  You know the kind I mean – legendary locally owned and operated diners on the edge of town that are themselves a destination for travelers who have heard how amazing the food is, each with a distinctive down-home vibe the Cracker Barrels and Bob Evans restaurants wish they could replicate. 

So, when more than one friend tipped me off about the Loveless Café, a Nashville institution since 1951 on the southern outskirts of the city, I longed for the opportunity to go there.  Fortunately, my most recent business trip to Nashville put me close to the Loveless Café.  Even more fortunately, my co-worker who rarely ventures out was as intrigued by the story of the Loveless Café as I was.  I think it’s safe to say neither of us was disappointed with the trip.

Located on Highway 100 near the north terminus of the Natchez Trace, the Loveless Café continues to thrive on it legacy of quality southern cooking – in particular its ham and biscuits.  That legacy includes national recognition from sources as varied as “The Today Show,” “Southern Living” magazine, the “Thrillist” website and Martha Stewart.        

A commoner dines at the Arcade Restaurant, Memphis, Tenn.

As a blogger, I sometimes have to make tough decisions on which topics I cover. Sure, a place can be historically significant, a city landmark or popular with tourists.  But if my personal experience there leaves me (ahem) underwhelmed, is it still, for lack of a better term, blogworthy?  Case in point:  the Arcade Restaurant in downtown Memphis, Tenn.

The Arcade Restaurant is recognized as the oldest and longest running restaurant in Memphis.  It’s ingrained in the city’s history.  Elvis Presley loved the place, probably because they served his favorite sandwich.  JFK, MLK and undoubtedly many other famous people with famous initials have dined here.    

Heavenly hash (and other delights) at Buxton Hall Barbecue, Asheville, N.C.

When Punky and I scheduled a layover in Asheville, N.C., on one of our road trips through the south a while back, I knew we had to stop at two places in the brief time we had – Burial Beer Company and Buxton Hall Barbecue.  I was already aware of the quality craft beer and fun outdoor day drinking vibe at Burial through a friend of ours who had moved to Asheville (Hi, Kristin!).  Buxton Hall Barbecue, on the other hand, stood out on an appearance on “Bizarre Foods” for its real-deal Carolina-style smoke whole hog.  I don’t know Andrew Zimmern personally, but I figured I’d give his strong recommendation a shot anyway. 

Fortunately, both were conveniently located within stumbling distance of each other in Asheville’s revitalized South Slope District just south of the city’s crowded downtown area.  It was a bit of a climb uphill from where we parked, but we followed our noses to the entrance and soon found ourselves taken aback by the restoration job that turned a one-time roller rink into one of the country’s most celebrated barbecue joints in recent memory.   

Brunch at Alcenia’s, Memphis, Tenn.

Memphis has more than its share of famous barbecue joints, and I’ve been proud to share my experiences at a few of them on this blog.  But when it comes to soul food in the “Home of the Blues” the conversation begins with Alcenia’s.