Driving the Road To Nowhere – Texas, from the Panhandle to Laredo

When I drove the section of U.S. 83 (aka “The Road to Nowhere”) that slices through the Texas Panhandle, then Central and South Texas down to Laredo, I couldn’t help but think that, in spite of its reputation as a “lonely” highway, it really does have a lot to offer along the drive, and it connects a lot of people. 

OK, so maybe not at first.  In fact, the stretch south from Shamrock to Anson had many wide-open spaces to justify the 75 and 80 mile per hour speed limits.  But between Anson and Abilene, the traffic got heavier as the highway expanded to four lanes.  Then, minutes later, I crossed into Abilene.

Driving into Abilene felt a little like rediscovering civilization after three days of relative isolation on U.S. 83.  Until I ended up in Laredo later in the day, it was easily the largest city I had seen on “The Road to Nowhere.”  And, I had another reason to be happy to get to Abilene.  My longtime friend Joe Hickey, a former resident of the area, had highly recommended I stop at his favorite burrito shop.  It seemed like the ideal spot for a quick brunch.

Joe knows me well.  From the moment I pulled into the driveway at La Popular #1 on the south side of town, I knew he had sent me to a local treasure.

Yes, there used to be a gas station here.  There’s no gas anymore, though, unless you’re relying on the burritos to kick in later.

La Popular #1 is indeed popular for its no-frills counter service and cheap but delicious fast food. 

The heartier appetites may opt for a plate lunch, but honestly most people come here to grab a couple of burritos or tacos, often on the go.  My only regret after coming here was that it wasn’t Saturday, so I couldn’t get menudo.

There is a small dining area on the right side of restaurant for those like me to have time to linger.

And I savored every bite of these tacos and my beef and potato burrito.  Simple, authentic, perfection.  Get plenty of sauce, too.  Although the food doesn’t need it, you’re definitely going to want it for that extra flavor bomb.

I left La Popular #1 and Abilene with a satisfied belly and a refreshed spirit ready to tackle the next lengthy stretch of brush country that’s so common in the heart of Texas.

I could tell I was making southward progress, as the tumbleweeds had given way to cactus patches.  

The towns, by this point, were few and far apart, except for the occasional county seat.  But I did learn after a couple of random stops about the historical significance of those county courthouses still standing proudly after more than a century in the center of town.   

The stone courthouse in Paint Rock, the seat of Concho County, was particularly eye-catching. 

By the time I had crossed Interstate 10 at the appropriately named town of Junction, the terrain had begun to feel even more rugged and desolate.  I was about to enter a stretch without a readily identifiable town for the next 60 miles.  I did pass by several exotic game ranches and hunting reserves, though. 

I was in the heart of Texas Hill Country by the time I stumbled upon this oasis at the intersection of U.S. 83 and Texas Route 41 – the Garven Country Store.  I had just found what may be the oldest operating convenience store in the state and a landmark at this intersection since 1932.

And it appears as though little has changed since then.  The Garven Store may officially have a Mountain Home, Texas, address, but that town is 20 miles east of here.  So, this place has a corner on the market for ... well, just about anything they can offer.  It also serves as the perfect place for anyone vacationing on the nearby scenic Frio River to stock up on supplies. 

I obviously didn’t have time to explore the river, but I did have time to let my nose guide me toward the store’s barbecue and jerky.  I pulled back these awesome swinging screen doors and stepped inside, back in time.

For an old-timey general store, the Garven Store has a surprisingly diverse selection of modern conveniences. 

I can get road snacks at any convenience store, though.  What I can’t find just anywhere is quality locally made jerky, especially coming in the variety of flavors offered here.  It’s a great set-up ... fill your bag with as much as you’d like, and they’ll weigh it at the checkout counter.  I was not walking out of there without some Cajun honey beef and mesquite beef to tide me over on the rest of the drive. 

Moving farther south, I entered one of what I believe is one of the most scenic stretches on U.S. 83 – the Frio River portion of Texas Hill Country.  From the Garven Store intersection, past Leakey and halfway to Uvalde, you’ll find several camps, cabins and other kinds of vacation rentals.  I’m not a huge outdoors enthusiast, but the thought of planning a future vacation in this area has stayed with me.

Eventually, the highway flattens out as you near Uvalde, and the terrain becomes brushier and more desert-like with each mile you process south.  After driving along the Frio River, frankly I felt let down with the rest of the drive from Uvalde to where U.S. 83 meets up with Interstate 35 a mere 15 miles north of Laredo.  Maybe after four full days of driving, it was just time to get off the “Road to Nowhere.”

The drive into Laredo on I-35 was even less inspiring, unless you like urban sprawl and miles of chain stores and restaurants indicative of a city that has more than doubled in population since 1990. 

It was a long run on U.S. 83, but it had its memorable moments.  And those long stretches of empty highway gave me plenty of time to be alone with my thoughts.  I came off my solo road trip on the “Road to Nowhere” feeling accomplished, but ready to come home.